Training fell off somewhat for a week or so, managed a few more weights sessions but I've sacked up and come to terms with the real issue - I should just go climbing more. Its a common and pathetic truth, I'm always really excited about all these new fangled training methods and regimes but my real problem is that I never see them through. So I'm back up against the wall or more accurately I'm back to going to the wall (namely Eldon Square Leisure in Newcastle) and just trying to keep it regular - hopefully 4-5 times a week [too ambitious? probably]. Just had my second session of the week there tonight and felt ok, managed the crack when I went for the first time this week and spent tonight working on the crimps and finishing with some finger board work. I've also started hitting the fingerboard while at work, deadhangs and many chins just to keep everything from getting too flabby - managed 100 chins in the last half hour of work the other week and I instantly regretted it when I woke up the next day!
Now I've got the boring training ramble out of the way I can get down to what little actual climbing I've been doing. On Sunday I went out with Joe, a semi regular climbing partner and safe as houses bloke, to Berryhill. It was probably the best day of cragging I've had in the last 6 or so months. We didn't climb many routes but the weather was perfect even though it looked like it was going to be shite the whole way on the drive there and we had the whole crag to ourselves.
Berryhill crag
Joe lead Western Arete VS 4c ** to start with, a good climb but a bit of a one move wonder with the only real excitement happening when trying to get established onto the arete, still worth its stars though.
Bob Bennett soloing Western Arete VS 4c
I then lead Marcher Load VS 5a ***. It turned out to be the best VS I've ever done in the County! The Line is perfect, the holds are great, there's plenty of gear where you need it but it still has a nice little runout when traversing to the cave at the top where you can sit for a breather before topping out. Its a bit goey but there's loads of rests and it's simply a superb route; climbing it on a perfect day, with the crag to yourself comes hard to beat in terms of good days out!
Ed Williams leading Marcher Lord VS 5a
Joe then had a go at Border Ballad HVS 5b *. He took a while figuring out the crux but go up it without falling, I didn't have so much success on second - opting to down climb and get past the tricky bit by climbing up a chimney and then reaching over onto the route. I should be ashamed I know.
I finished up by running up Hi Diddle Diddle HS 4b *. I only bothered to place a single wire but it felt pretty easy and I was baffled to see that most people reckon it's a VS?! I guess it's one of those routes that are a lot easier if you don't hang about on them - it does have a couple of moves on an ever so slightly overhanging bit but the holds are massive and plentiful. Horses for courses though.
Joe then did a bit of bouldering, I sat and smoked/ate. Then we pissed off and I fell asleep in the car only to be woken up by Joe as we arrived back at my flat to drop me off. A very good day out.
No comments:
Post a Comment